Our food columnist (finally) experiences one of OC’s long-standing establishments.
Over a decade ago (April 26, 2012 to be exact), I pored over the restaurant review of The Hobbit written by an OC Weekly colleague at the time, Edwin Goei. His point of view was so compelling, referencing elements of a progressive dinner and a certain amount of formality – two things that excite me – that I made up my mind to eventually dine there, and I almost did a few years ago when my friend’s boyfriend’s brother was the chef, but life happened and dinner did not.
Fast forward to earlier this month and our party of three perpetually busy women finally sat down on a Sunday to catch up on each other’s lives like only women could and partake in a special meal within a converted home. Planning this dinner was in the works for over a year-and-a-half due to travel, work and illness.
Throughout the evening I thought about the review as well as what Inga Tantisalidchai, my friend who coordinated our reservation, noticed about the recently renovated Hobbit in Orange. We also had the opportunity to socialize with current Executive Chef Nick Torgerson, and he made time to briefly show us around the upstairs to go over interior updates, among other topics. I learned that Tantisalidchai and Torgerson initially met when they both worked at Charlie Palmer inside Bloomingdale's (before it switched to Holstein’s for about a year; then evolving to what’s now Collage Culinary Experience food hall). She knew Torgerson’s previous employment included The Hobbit, but wasn’t certain he had returned until she heard a familiar voice originating from the kitchen during intermission.
Chef Nick Torgerson
Chef Torgerson’s connection to The Hobbit has come full-circle from his original employment there as a line cook 15 years ago in 2009. He worked under the OG chef/owner Mike Philippi, who opened The Hobbit in 1972. “That was when I met future owner Matthew McKinney; he was working as a server,” Togerson said. From there, he moved on to new experiences at other high-end properties including Montage’s Loft Restaurant in Laguna Beach, Charlie Palmer, plus a year doing only catering. His background also noted time as opening chef of Todos Santos in Rancho Santa Margarita.
During his stint at Montage, Torgerson reconnected with McKinney (who was now a sommelier). He and his wife, Sasha, came in to celebrate an anniversary. “I cooked a tasting menu for them, preparing nothing from the Loft menu. That dinner is what got me the job as executive chef when he was finally able to purchase The Hobbit,” Torgerson said.
When COVID prevented indoor dining, The Hobbit worked on renovations. In the process, the way in which dinner was served would also be updated. As for his workhorse kitchen, a few choice modifications were conducted including removing the doors off kitchen cabinets, new flooring, stainless steel countertops and a new range.
Since it was my first visit to The Hobbit, I wanted to know how often the menu was changed out. Chef Torgerson keeps dishes on rotation for roughly six weeks, always trying to highlight the best of what’s available. “We like to say we want to celebrate the seasons and honor the ingredients,” he said.
PHOTO 1: The exterior of The Hobbit. Photo captured from Google Maps. PHOTOS 2 and 3: The bar in the basement, and the dining room. Photos by Anne Marie Panoringan, Culture OC. PHOTO 4: Inga Tantisalidchai and Jason Venzon pose in the bathtub which was a fixture in the bathroom of The Hobbit before renovations were made. Photo courtesy of Inga Tantisalidchai
Inga Tantisalidchai (@CocktailsbyIngs)
For the past eight years, Tantisalidchai has celebrated her birthday at The Hobbit. She possesses fond memories of her visits and the way the evening would progress. Pre-COVID, The Hobbit provided a slightly different experience, utilizing one of the original homes from when Orange County was only citrus groves. “The Hobbit offered a unique dining experience where guests would arrive early and enjoy cocktails at the bar in the upstairs lounge (which has currently been moved down to the basement/wine cellar),” she said.
“Guests were previously brought to the basement/cellar after cocktail hour to enjoy an indulgent buffet of hors d'oeuvres alongside petite French sandwiches while sipping on a choice of complimentary champagne or apple cider, browsing for a wine to uncork at dinner,” she said. Tantisalidchai observed during our meal that the hors d'oeuvres and champagne/cider are now incorporated into the dining experience upstairs where each guest gets to sample a plated amuse bouche of small bites prepared by the kitchen. Dinner was traditionally a five-course meal with an intermission before the entree so guests could roam around the property and visit the back of the house to meet the chefs preparing dinner.
According to Tantisalidchai, there used to be a bathtub in the upstairs bathroom, maintaining its original layout as a house (and making for an amusing photo). “But after COVID it has been revamped and updates to the bathroom removed it,” she said.
PHOTO 1: Cheesy pull-apart sandwich served during the cocktail hour. PHOTO 2: The amuse-bouche. PHOTO 3: Weiser Farms melon gazpacho. PHOTO 4: Bellwether Farms ricotta agnolotti. PHOTO 5: The menu at The Hobbit in August 2024. PHOTO 6: The place setting and dining at the Hobbit. Photos by Anne Marie Panoringan, Culture OC
A First-Timer’s Perspective
The tasting menu format at The Hobbit is an ideal way to dine when folks aren’t familiar with a dining concept as it features a comprehensive spread of thoughtfully planned dishes. In fact it’s the sole option at this neighborhood establishment.
The six Hobbit courses we feasted on included amuse bouches, soup, agnolotti (stuffed pasta), a sorbet palate cleanser, choice of beef or seafood, and dessert. While there are reasons to savor every course, I have been on a noodle/pasta kick as of late. Bellwether Farms’ ricotta agnolotti cocooned beech mushrooms and pancetta swimming in a pork consomme was my clear favorite (soup pun not intended). It was followed closely by prime filet mignon alongside charred eggplant puree (which reminded me of Lebanese baba ganoush spread), broccolini, and hen of the woods mushrooms finished with a red wine demi-glace. Overall, a lovely dinner with friends who appreciate this particular type of experience.
Service-wise we were seated on the main level, near enough to the kitchen that we could signal to staff as they passed by. What I wasn’t amused by was initially spending 45 minutes in a relatively dark basement/cellar/bar/waiting area that could benefit from additional seating, a piece of artwork, or a securely placed, luxe runner leading diners to the bartender, a subliminal cue to refresh their glass. The top floor was redesigned to include two private rooms for larger parties and privacy, perfect for special events of a certain size.
Would I head back? Yes, but I would saunter to the outdoor patio (which I noticed after the fact) to enjoy my pre-dinner beverage in natural light.
The Hobbit
WHERE: 2932 E. Chapman Ave., Orange
WHEN: 7-11 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. Closed Monday and Tuesday. Reservations are available on OpenTable.
COST: A six course, prix fixe dinner is $150.00 per person; 18% gratuity and tax is added to the total.
CONTACT: (714) 997-1972; hobbitrestaurant.com
