Aug 147 min read

Luciana's Celebrates 40 Years of Winning Wines and 'Convivo'

The family restaurant in Dana Point has a new chef and another Wine Spectator award, but its enduring secret sauce is its hospitality.

Jorge Luhan II, left, president and director of operations of the Luhan Corporation, with his mother, Lucia "Lucy" Luhan, right, founder of Luciana's Ristorante and What's Cooking? bistros. Luhan's late grandmother, Mary Vallera, center, shared her family's recipes which were used to make the restaurant's signature pastas. Photo courtesy of Luciana's Ristorante/Rick Davitt

Enter Luciana’s Ristorante in Dana Point and you’ll immediately feel at home. Set in a former residence, its décor feels like a spacious Italian farmhouse. There are wood beams on the ceiling, a grand hearth in the main dining room and two patios for those who love their meals al fresco. An impressive wine cellar is the dominant feature of a long room most often used for private dining and there’s also the Piazza, a separate event space.

Hostess Linda Pereira will make sure you’re shown to the right table. Throughout the evening she’s carefully keeping track, occasionally walking through the restaurant, iPad in hand, to make sure all guests are comfortably seated.

Next, the capable wait staff – some veterans of a decade or more – greet you. They’re so relaxed and jovial you’ll soon feel the same. Servers are versed in handling all kinds of customers; celebrity guests have included Placido Domingo, Cher, Madonna and David Letterman.

These days, when restaurants are bought and sold like commodities, and rising food and labor prices continue to drive mid-priced establishments out of business, this tried-and-true Orange County landmark stays reasonably priced and soulful.

Luciana’s is celebrating its 40th anniversary with two announcements. A new executive chef, Luis Sandoval, arrived in June, and in July Luciana’s again accepted an Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator. Expertly curated by general manager William Blank, the wine list represents 10 countries, 350 labels and over 3,000 bottles.

As for the chef, Peruvian native Sandoval’s lengthy resume includes stints at Orient Express and Marriott hotels in Lima and on cruise lines such as Royal Caribbean, Disney and Princess, as well as in fine dining rooms in New York and Chicago.

PHOTO 1: Luciana's Ristorante has a grand hearth in its main dining room in Dana Point. Photo courtesy of Luciana's Ristorante. PHOTO 2: Luciana's Ristorante in Dana Point has a dining room with a display wine cellar. Photo courtesy of Luciana's Ristorante/Bob Hodson

Old World Connections at Its Origins

Owner Jorge Luhan II explained that it all started with his mother, Lucia “Lucy” Luhan. She founded a handmade pasta business in 1976 with his late grandmother Mary Vallera’s heirloom recipes. His mother’s products were sold in local markets and served at What’s Cooking? Bistro in Newport Beach. A second location opened in Costa Mesa in 1982 before Luciana’s debuted in 1983.

Is its Old World connection the secret to Luciana’s success? Luhan recalls the early days when you ask about his family’s legacy. “In 1976, we would say pasta but everyone called it spaghetti. And we were still explaining espresso and cappuccino,” he said with a smile.

Perhaps its secret is the high-quality ingredients. “In 1985, my mother found a rundown house in Tuscany – that was before ‘Under the Tuscan Sun,” he said, referring to the romantic film starring Diane Lane that drew legions of tourists to the region.

The roof of the 500-year-old main building was caved in, but his mother recognized the land as priceless; it was set on 15 acres where olive trees flourished and the family could press its own extra virgin oil to serve in the restaurant.

“My mom calls it liquid gold,” he says with pride. By 1992, his American-born mother had moved to her ancestral homeland; her husband joined her in 2001. The couple now owns two homes: the one in Tuscany, where Lucia also founded a bed and breakfast, and another in Abruzzo, the region from which her family hails.

When we dined recently at Luciana’s, Luhan II stopped by several times to check on us. In his neutral-colored slim-fit suit, he looked younger than his 55 years and attributes it to his genes rather than his father’s skills; Jorge Luhan Sr., a native of Argentina, was a prominent Newport Beach plastic surgeon.

PHOTO 1: The front patio at Luciana's Ristorante in Dana Point. Photo courtesy of Luciana's Ristorante. PHOTO 2: Luciana's Ristorante offers al fresco dining in spaces such as this one. Photo courtesy of Luciana's Ristorante/Bob Hodson

Hooked Into Running the Family Business

Luhan speaks Spanish and understands Italian. He grew up working in the family business alongside his mom, brother and sister from the time he was 7. By 25, he was a GM.

He holds bachelor’s degrees in Spanish and business and earned an MBA, fully intent on starting a career specializing in international enterprises. But one day he realized that hospitality would be his life’s work.

By 1990, he had begun taking over operations at the three Orange County restaurants and was joined by his brother a year or two later. They accepted full responsibility for running the business in 1992.

The Luhans eventually closed the other restaurants and focused on Luciana’s. With just one dining room to manage, Jorge’s brother Jason Luhan decided to pursue a career as a lawyer. But Jorge was hooked. He realized it when he was offered a dream job in Latin America. “At that point I was like, ‘Nope, I'm staying in the family business,’” he said. “I love this.”

Luhan compares his job to throwing a party every night. “You could have two diners show up or 100 and you’ve just got to be prepared.” On a busy Saturday, Luciana’s serves more than 300 meals. “You get the regulars, you get the people from out of town, and you never know who else. We've had amazing experiences with guests–great stories, great conversation. That's the enjoyment.”

He excuses himself to tend to other customers because the dining room is filling up quickly. At one table, guests are deciding on a wine after Luhan poured a few tastes. At another, two middle-aged couples are in deep conversation. Are they UCI faculty? One is describing his novel while twirling his linguine.

Next to us, it’s date night for a young couple. He’s dressed to impress in a white Ralph Lauren button-down shirt. She’s more casual in a fitted tank top and pearls, but she’s also wearing false eyelashes that lower demurely when he leans in to speak to her. They order a bottle of California red wine and by the time the appetizers arrive they’re all comfy and cozy, sharing bites.

Such a variety of customers makes it apparent that there’s something for everyone on this menu with antipasti ($8-$19), soups and salads ($9-$15), meat and seafood ($21- $45) and pastas ($18-$30). Sandoval is still in the process of refreshing the offerings: Customer favorites will remain, some items will be removed, and 10 new dishes will be added.

A combination appetizer is perfect for the indecisive, with lightly breaded shrimp and calamari, a few bites of caprese and a savory bruschetta with salty capers.

PHOTO 1: Luciana's Ristorante in Dana Point is best known for its pasta and other Italian dishes such as this Linguine with Scampi, foreground, and bruschetta, background. PHOTO 2: They also serve decadent desserts such as this tiramisu. PHOTO 3: A waiter presents Rosso Del Milio, a selection from the award-winning wine list. Photos courtesy of Luciana's Ristorante

So, what's it like to dine at Luciana's?

It's difficult not to fill up on the crusty bread, which reminds us of the hearty loaves we loved in Florence, but save room for your entrée. Our rack of lamb was cooked perfectly medium rare and accented with a sparky chimichurri sauce that lent a South American touch.

The lamb was a special that night, and for the seafood lovers there’s always a fresh fish offering too. Of course, pastas are the signature and we thoroughly enjoyed a lobster raviolio (a larger version of ravioli), stuffed with plenty of seafood and topped with a pink vodka sauce.

As the evening goes on, the restaurant gets livelier. Diners just arriving are hugging and kissing before being seated. Raucous laughter breaks out as guests tell jokes over the sound of clinking glasses. Luhan has stories of families who host special occasions here, from rehearsal dinners to birthdays and celebrations of life. He tells of one night when two groups arrived separately, began conversing, reseated themselves to be closer and then ended up talking for hours on the patio.

We move on to dessert, a decadent Cioccolato de Luciana, an Italian flourless double chocolate hazelnut cake with a drizzle of fresh berry puree accompanied by a scoop of vanilla gelato. Our waiter, Oscar Anselmi, is full of anecdotes, some from his time serving aboard the cruise ship MS Achille Lauro; he left that job four months before the tragic hijacking incident. He trained in Rome, worked in France and came to the U.S. when he was 26. He knows his stuff.

I ask for an espresso, but he wants to make sure my palate is ready. “I’ll bring it in a few minutes when you’ve finished your wine,” he says. He’s absolutely right; who would want to interfere with the bright flavors of a refreshing Gavi di Gavi from Piemonte?

Before coffee arrives, we’re already planning a return visit and ask Oscar for the numbers of the most requested tables: No. 4 is a catbird seat; a booth that faces the entire dining room. No. 10 is at the window, so you can see and be seen. No. 1 is directly in front of the fireplace, a perfect place to bliss out on a cold winter’s night. Meanwhile, waiters are cruising tables not their own and everyone is clearing, clearing, clearing. But they do it so discreetly you don’t feel rushed.

With the restaurant in full swing, you come to realize the real secret to Luciana’s enduring success is the irresistible vibe Luhan has created by making certain that everyone gets treated like family.

“My mom uses a word: convivo, which means ‘around the table.’ That's what this is. It's a conversation around the table,” he said. In his opinion, connecting on social media just isn’t enough. He believes everyone could use a night at Luciana’s with family or friends.

We think you could come by yourself and not feel alone, enjoying pasta, wine and a chat with your favorite waiter. “That’s what's missing in today's society and we're starting to come back to it,” Luhan said, surveying the room. “That's what this is every night.”