The best-selling author has a new book to chat about at his upcoming appearance at the Irvine Barclay Theatre on Oct. 13.
You live alone and had a tough day at work. It’s supposed to be family movie night but your kids are still struggling with homework. Or maybe your partner has hit the wall after watching disaster after disaster on the evening news.
You need comfort food. So, why not take some tips from one of the world’s most popular chefs? Yotam Ottolenghi has your back. He’s just written an entire cookbook on the subject.
“It’s not really about particular recipes. It’s much more about what gives us comfort,” he said in an interview speaking about “Ottolenghi Comfort” and his upcoming appearance at the Irvine Barclay Theatre on Oct. 13. “We wanted to write about the emotional reaction, the feeling of comfort that we have when we cook this kind of food,” he said.
Who better to turn to than a chef who’s sold 5 million cookbooks worldwide? Those who have seen his television series, “Ottolenghi’s Mediterranean Feast,” or the documentary, “Ottolenghi and the Cakes of Versailles,” know this Israeli-born chef has taken a global approach in his 10 previous books and his latest effort offers something for everyone.
A prolific writer who contributes regularly to The New York Times and the Guardian, he was born in Jerusalem and grew up in Israel with parents of Italian and German heritage, and he also spent childhood summers in Italy. Now he lives in London with his partner and their two young sons.
Drawing on his background, his cooking has always leaned toward the Mediterranean but he also reaches into culinary traditions from around the globe. He’s renowned for showcasing fresh fruits and vegetables in ways most of us have never dreamed of, giving home cooks the confidence to prepare glorious platters in their own kitchens.
Sweet and savory recipes in the book range from meatloaf and hummus to caramelized white chocolate chip cookies and vegan Texas sheet cake. We tested some, then chatted with Ottolenghi to find out what’s in store for those who will attend the event and for anyone who wants to know more about his take on comfort food.
Q. How did this book come about?
A. One of my co-authors, Helen Goh, and I had written a book together quite a few years ago called “Sweet.” And when we were touring with the book, we sat one day at an airport and started talking about the next book – this was before the pandemic – and the idea of creating a book of dishes that we cook at home.
Along the way we added Verena Lochmuller, who is another co-author, and Tara Wigley. And the way it evolved, it turned into a recipe book that talks about food that is familiar and nostalgic. In an era where there's just so much uncertainty and so much heartache going on in the world, we thought, “We want to create recipes that give people comfort.”
Q. You’re a multiplatform empire with seven London restaurants, television appearances, 11 cookbooks and now this tour. How do you stay on top of things?
A. I don't know how I do it, I just do it. I suppose it's the way we work, it's extremely collaborative and not very top heavy. So, each restaurant has its own head chef in charge of their own menus. For the team at the test kitchen, one of us tries a recipe and we converse about it, evolve it. It very much allows people to be who they are and contribute to the creative effort. Of course, it's my name on the door.
Q. I like your approach to ethnic cuisines. A couple of high-flying American foodies whom I’ve interviewed – Rick Martinez and Francis Lam – refuse to get hung up on the word “authentic.” What’s your take?
A. I am also of that camp. Because I think authentic can be quite misleading. I think when someone says authentic, well, actually what they mean is, it's my way or the highway kind of thing.
But there's nothing authentic in the sense that food evolves in different places at different times. One home cooks it this way, one home cooks it that way. And I don't think we should police the way people cook. I think the most important thing is to tell the story of the dish. So, if you decide to put chorizo in your paella – which is a big no-no in Spain – it's up to you. It's fine. You know it's not Spanish. You call it paella … and I would just say it doesn't matter so much, as long as it's delicious and you haven't hurt anyone's feelings.
Q. You've been praised by Deborah Madison. When I interviewed her, she said she doesn’t label herself a vegetarian and she’s not didactic. But I think the most beautiful and colorful ingredients in the world are fruits and vegetables and when a chef shows respect for that, like she does, a whole new world opens up, agree?
A. Totally agree. I published “Plenty” 14 years ago. It only has vegetables, but it doesn't say it's a vegetarian cookbook. And I think it really helps people connect because they don't feel excluded by the title vegetarian. For me, labels are not so important. It's what you do.
And I always love celebrating vegetables because I think they're the best thing in the world. They're way better than meat and fish in the sense that they're more versatile. You can do more things with them. There's more methods of cooking. They transform more. They absorb flavor more. They really are the bee’s knees. I’m of the opinion that everybody's included, whether you're a meat eater or a vegetarian, you're all invited to my vegetable feast.
Q. Chefs are now doing appearances as superstars. Bourdain did them, Ina Garten is coming to the Segerstrom Center for the Arts on Oct. 24 – tell us what can you share with the live audience that you can’t in a newspaper article or book?
A. The interaction with a live audience is priceless. Because there's nothing like human interaction. You cannot replace it. I often feel that I'm kind of energized by the audience reaction. If I say something funny and they laugh, or if I give a tip that seems to be appreciated, it gives me momentum to come up with another thing or another idea, to carry it on to the next level.
Q. What should we expect at the appearance?
A. I’ll do a kind of an interactive demo. I'm not cooking with an oven or a stove but the ingredients are gonna be there, and I'm gonna put something together with the audience's help and it's gonna be fun or crazy.
Q. Will folks get to taste anything?
A. No (chuckles), there’s too many people and I can’t bring food for hundreds.
Q. I like that you have vegan, gluten-free and vegetarian recipes in this book. In my family we have vegetarians, pescatarians, vegans, gluten-free and recently have added some in-laws who observe halal traditions. Are more families becoming like mine?
A. Yeah, totally. It's more difficult to cook though, because you need to cater to different people's dietary requirements, so that's challenging if you're the only cook. But I think if it's a big gathering, it's much more interesting and inclusive if people bring their own dishes. Then you get to try different people's food, so it’s a much more dynamic atmosphere. It's all a good thing because we're exposed to different ways of eating, which is what makes food exciting.
Q. I’ve been cooking from the book and really enjoying the recipes. The hummus with vermouth is the perfect snack for martini drinkers. I made the sambal spiced chicken with the delicious peanut sauce.
The gluten-free white chocolate-macadamia nut cookies could win a beauty contest. When you roast the nuts, add the caramelized white chocolate and the browned butter, everything bakes up a gorgeous dark blonde color. Where did you come up with that idea?
A. This is by Verena, one of the collaborators. She’s an incredibly talented chef, and she just made them to sell in our shops in London. My kids and I are all addicted to them. They've got this slightly sandy texture and they’re just so good!
Q. Watched “Cakes of Versailles” last night, that documentary you filmed at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in Manhattan. You’re such a bright intellect on food. Do you think you’ll ever write a book that’s not a cookbook?
A. I just don't have time, but I do want to do that one day. I'm always thinking about what to do next. I've just been pulled into the world of cookbooks, but I do want to do something else. I just don't have in mind what it might be. I love storytelling. I love writing stories. So maybe one day I'll write a book of stories, but at the moment, I haven't really given it enough thought yet.
Q. Well, you’ve got your career and kids too, so you’re a busy man. Before we let you go, where are you going to eat when you're in Orange County? Are you going to Little Saigon?
A. Should I?
Q. Oh yeah!
A. OK. I'll go to Little Saigon!
‘An Evening with Yotam Ottolenghi’
WHEN: 5 p.m. Oct. 13
WHERE: Irvine Barclay Theater, 4242 Campus Drive, Irvine
COST: $54-$145
CONTACT: (949) 854-4646 or thebarclay.org
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