Our culinary columnist checks out the new chef's counter at Mercado González’s upscale restaurant.
Over the long holiday weekend, I spent date night with an advanced reservation at Maizano, the sole full-service dining concept at Mercado González in Costa Mesa. Within Maizano, Chef Alan Sanz conducted a final practice run of his new chef’s counter experience, which included beverage pairings. Reservations will be available for two seatings Friday and Saturday nights at 6 and 8 p.m. at the six-seat countertop which includes a close-up view of the kitchen separated by a window pane (Think Din Tai Fung’s xiao long bao window).
Maizano’s dining room was nearly at capacity for a long weekend, which I took as a positive sign. Yet this influx of clientele also made listening to the chef next to impossible, even when he stood right behind me. The din of multiple conversations bounced off the walls for at least half our meal.
The theme of the dinner was El Inicio, meaning “the beginning.” Per Sanz, “It was our way of introducing our style of cooking, the ingredients that currently speak to us, and ultimately a new chapter to the Maizano experience.” Chef Sanz shopped for produce at Irvine Farmers Market next to Mariners Church, the Costa Mesa Farmers Market at the fairgrounds as well as the Santa Monica Farmers Market. “The offerings on the menu will be dependent on what we’ve sourced from the farmers market or a call from our local vendors, letting us know of a special fresh catch or dry-aged steak.”
Course One: Oyster
A Kumiai oyster with carne apache (beef ceviche) topped with a tamari-cured quail egg.
This tartare of “surf and turf” wins on taste alone, which surprised me considering the bold choice Sanz opted for by preparing a completely raw, yet nuanced course to begin dinner. My concern was two-fold: Eating ceviche out of what vaguely resembled an Asian soup spoon was less practical than it sounds; due to the type of serveware selected to present our first course, it left behind little pools of water due to the condensation of ice beneath my oyster.
The oyster was paired with Nami sake from Sinaloa. Note: All wine pairings originated from Mexico, per Sommelier Felicia Chavez.
Course Two: Churro
Savory fried churro composed of lacto-fermented cherry “ketchup” chintextle aioli, chile-cotija cheese and pickled hibiscus transformed into a “caviar.”
Similar to my oyster course, the “churro” was an interactive dish that I picked up with my hands because there wasn’t a utensil in sight. This may have been intentional, and I was fine with it. However it would’ve been nice to receive a damp towel after handling the first two courses. (Note: The closest and only restrooms are located at the other end of Mercado.) It appeared unappetizing until I took my first bite and discovered a flavor bomb.
Chavez geeked out over pairing this course with a Cava Quintanilla “Laberinto” Gewurztraminer from San Luis Potosi. “The fried, cheesy, spicy elements needed a wine that had some acid and some residual sugar,” she said. She also mentioned how the cava played really well with the cherry ketchup.
Course Three: Crudo de Hamachi
Catch of the day, Oaxacan honey, yuzu and pecans.
The second of three seafood courses, sweet and citrus tastes rounded out the delicate slices of unassuming, cured fin fish sourced from Santa Monica Seafood. My favorite course of the evening, it was extra refreshing when paired with a zero-proof agua fresca consisting of lime, chia and hoja santa (a Mexican herb akin to peppery anise). The simplicity of both crudo and coordinating sip demonstrate how less complex dishes can still strike a flavorful chord in someone because I also favored the non-alcoholic drink above the others.
Course Four: Mussels
Chorizo, tomatillos and mezcal.
As the young adults would say, this course was fire. Independently, these ingredients can hold their own in a dish. Collectively, it was a wave of flavor that also invited warm, pliable ciabatta prepared in-house to this saute party to sop up any leftover shellfish broth.
Chavez selected a Vinaltura Chenin Blanc, Queretaro to complete the pairing.
Course Five: Lamb Gordita
Lamb barbacoa, heirloom Oaxacan blue corn with salsa de chapulines, avocado and black beans.
As much as I enjoy lamb as a protein, making it the filling of a deep fried orb gave it OC Fair vibes; this was difficult to enjoy due to the rich protein, making me fuller quicker. It was saved by the side of pureed beans with crema finish.
Chavez joined the braised lamb with Vinicola OS “Verraco” Syrah because she felt the lamb reminded her of some Greek flavors. “The 100% Verraco Syrah from Vinicola OS in Valle de San Vicente was a perfect match,” she said.
Course Six: Mole Negro
Cornish hen roulade with black mole, seasonal mushrooms and popped sorghum.
A 50+ ingredient course, over half of the components made up the mole. In addition, the cooking methods utilized included braising, baking and roasting. Sorghum’s mild taste and texture reminded me of popcorn. From the layered complexity of the mole to umami fungi and not-quite-popcorn, it was an orchestra of flavors that played well with its fowl. This dish in particular was so dense in flavor it would have been appreciated more being served in autumn.
Chavez paired the penultimate course with a Cuna de Tierra Cabernet from Guanajuato.
Course Seven: Chocolate Tart
Raspberry and cafe de olla.
The final dish of our comprehensive prix fixe was a Oaxacan baked dessert of chocolate cake with hibiscus honey and berries; an interactive finish of tableside chocolate mousse marked the end of our meal. The tart itself wasn’t overly sweet, echoing its pairing of Terra Madi Blanc de Noirs from Queretaro.
If You Plan To Go
Patrons can choose between a $115 four-course dinner and $150 for all seven courses (plus tax and gratuity). “While it will change monthly and with the seasons, guests can expect changes on one to two menu items each week,” he said. Wine pairings are an additional $45-$60, respectively; cocktail and aguas frescas pairings are forthcoming. Depending on the number of guests and courses, the chef’s counter can easily take 90 minutes, plus time for asking questions.
Every course tasted delicious and was of a considerable portion size; some courses were more aesthetically pleasing than others, which made all the difference to me. Chef Sanz came out for every course, doing his best to talk over the dining room’s buzz; yet the noise made additional conversations difficult to have. Pairings were solid and our beverages and silverware (not counting the first two “hands-on” courses) came out in a timely fashion.
According to Sanz, his chef’s counter ties into a larger culinary trend in Mexico that emphasizes celebrating regional ingredients and traditional techniques with a modern twist. “Across Mexico, there is a growing movement to elevate and reimagine traditional Mexican cuisine. This trend focuses on locally sourced, sustainable ingredients while honoring our rich cultural heritage,” he said.
By highlighting the diversity and depth of Mexican flavors and promoting sustainability, Maizano supports local farmers and producers. “Our chef’s table embodies this trend, offering an intimate and immersive dining experience that showcases these principles in each thoughtfully crafted dish.” Sanz said.
If the descriptions and commentary made you salivate, it’s time to book a reservation. I would select a complete dinner over the four-course based on sheer pricing. After cocktail and aguas frescas pairings are established, I’ll likely be back.
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