The New England sandwich offers a fresh, hot way to enjoy seafood for National Lobster Day, Sept. 25.
Lobster rolls are a widely popular sandwich in Maine and Connecticut, where locals savor the freshest caught crustaceans of the day. The classic Connecticut version is served chilled with a mixture of mayonnaise and lemon, and Maine’s version (my favorite) is served hot and with drawn butter and lemon.
It is a lesser-known fact of the lobster industry that before lobster became the popular delicacy it is today, it was served mainly to prisoners. Lobster was abundant, cheap and dubbed the “cockroach of the sea.”
Flash forward to 2022, when it was reported that upwards of 100 million pounds of lobster was sold in the U.S., valued at half a billion dollars-worth, according to NOAA Fisheries.
In anticipation of National Lobster Day (Sept. 25), I sat down with Logan Kock, chief sustainability officer of Santa Monica Seafood (SMS), a popular seafood market and restaurant located in Santa Monica and Costa Mesa, for insight into lobster’s resurging popularity.
Culture OC: Tell us about SMS’s involvement in the lobster industry.
Logan Kock: SMS’s founders, great Uncles Frank and Jack had the exclusive rights to all the spiny lobsters exported out of Mexico into the US for almost 40 years between 1940 and 1977 …. They oversaw all the processing, cooking and quality assurance of the product which they packed under their Captain Cal brand before shipping it to the U.S. for distribution to wholesalers and distributors across the country. They played a major role in the popularization of California lobsters and to the economic development and success of the fishery and fishing communities.
CO: What makes California lobster special?
LK: To begin with, it’s one of the best-tasting lobsters in the world and a classic uniquely California recreational and commercial fishery that everyone looks forward to every year.
CO: How do you find the best lobster?
LK: There are so many different lobsters available to us from all over the world, but my favorites are live. Tender and uncommonly sweet, this is one reason why California lobsters are so revered locally. The late summer Maine lobster served at local lobster shacks along the coast is another amazing experience. So are fresh cooked European lobsters in Ireland and Scotland. Most of us have only tried frozen Caribbean tails, but they are no comparison to the fresh butter-basted whole cooks you can get in Cuba and the Bahamas.
CO: That’s a lot of variety! Where does your lobster come from?
LK: Our lobsters, mostly frozen tails, come from the north, west and south Australia, South Africa, the western Pacific and Caribbean. Our fresh lobsters come from Eastern Canada, Maine and California.
CO: And along with regions, I think there are a lot of great ways to enjoy it too. But we’re mad about lobster rolls. What makes a delicious lobster roll?
LK: This is easy, just like we serve them at our restaurant. Generous amount of lobster on a New England hot dog bun with minimum seasoning. We only use lemon aioli and chives to allow the lobster’s flavor to shine.
CO: Lobster’s come a long way. I’m sure you know that it used to be served to prisoners. But it’s not so abundant today. Can you tell us more about your sustainability practices and goals?
LK: The California fishery has been managed sustainably by the California Fish and Game Department for over 100 years .… It is a limited fishery that opens in late September for the recreational fishers to get a head start, and on the first Wednesday in October for the commercial fisherman to avoid the spawning season. The recreational Fishery ends on the first Wednesday after March 15, while the commercial ends typically on March 22.
The commercial fishery accounts for about two-thirds of total annual landings which have been consistent over the past 20 years between 1 million and 1.2 million pounds and uses traps and hoop nets. To avoid ghost fishing (abandoned nets that can trap fish), these traps are built with dissolvable biodegradable closing mechanisms that ensure lobster escapement from lost or unretrieved traps. While the landings have been stable, the value to the Southern California economy has increased tremendously over the years.
California’s Fish and Game’s extremely successful management system is constantly improving as a result from biological surveys and strict enforcement. In addition to controlled openings, limited licenses, minimum size limits and daily catch limits, Marine Protected Areas have contributed to increased abundance and spillover effects into surrounding areas.
Here’s Where TO FIND Lobster Rolls in OC
Santa Monica Seafood
Santa Monica Seafood has garnered a reputation in the fishing industry over its 84 years in existence, playing a significant role in California’s lobster popularization. Santa Monica Seafood is part market, restaurant and oyster bar and supplies lobster throughout Orange County. The restaurant’s “New England style” lobster roll features lemon aioli, chopped chives and a butter-toasted brioche roll, served with french fries or an organic garden salad.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily
Locations: 154 East 17th St., Costa Mesa
Cost for the Lobster Roll: $34-36
Contact: santamonicaseafood.com
Water Grill
Water Grill offers an inviting open-air restaurant concept for a comfortable and contemporary fine-dining experience, located across the street from South Coast Plaza shopping center. The meal begins with warm sea-salted sourdough rolls. A toasted and lightly buttered roll is stuffed with a hearty portion of lobster meat, prepared Maine or Connecticut-style. It’s served with housemade bread-and-butter pickles and perfectly thick, golden french fries and ketchup. And the cocktails are a must: I recommend the “Bristol Street,” a lightly tart and refreshing combination of vodka, strawberries, lemon and tarragon served “on the rocks.”
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday
Locations: 3300 Bristol St., Costa Mesa
Cost for the Lobster Roll: $37
Contact: watergrill.com
King’s Fish House
King’s Fish House is a popular eatery for families and parties, serving classic favorites like clam chowder, fish and chips and a plethora of seafood options. Guests can order their New England lobster rolls “traditional” (Maine-style) or served with browned butter, and I highly recommend pairing it with the raspberry-mint lemonade, an excellent balance of sweet and tart with fragrant mint leaves. To conclude the meal, try the “hooked on butter cake,” served with homemade vanilla bean ice cream, whipped cream, and berries for an indulgent experience.
Hours: Vary by location
Locations: Huntington Beach, Orange and Laguna Hills (other locations throughout California, in Arizona and Nevada)
Cost for the Lobster Roll: $36
Contact: kingsfishhouse.com
Bluewater Grill
Bluewater Grill offers a variety of classic and creative options to suit the discerning tastebud, including seared scallops with roasted jalapeno aioli garnished with bacon and cilantro, the “seafood louie salad” with lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber, egg, avocado, red rock crab, bay shrimp and dressing, fried Ipswich whole belly clams and even a “shark attack”: a kid’s blueberry soda with gummy sharks “(circling) waiting for you to feed them shark bait – red POM juice!” Get your lobster roll hot and buttered or chilled on a toasted brioche bun and choose between french fries or coleslaw as your side.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily
Locations: 630 Lido Park Drive, Newport Beach
Cost for the Lobster Roll: $29.50
Contact: bluewatergrill.com
Slapfish
Slapfish is a casual beachside seafood spot located at the outlets at San Clemente. Enjoy a classic buttered lobster roll served with french fries, or try their new limited-edition shrimp scampi roll version with grilled shrimp, roma tomatoes, arugula, scampi sauce and garlic breadcrumbs, or try one of Slapfish’s signature sides including the “truffle parm tots,” “sweet & spicy cauliflower,” sesame soy brussels sprouts, poke and chips, “slap slaw” or chips and salsa.
Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday-Thursday and 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday-Saturday
Locations: 101 W. Avenida Vista Hermosa Suite 616, San Clemente
Cost for the Lobster Roll: Market price
Contact: slapfishrestaurant.com
Cousin’s Maine Lobster
Cousin’s Maine Lobster brings lobster throughout California in its mobile food truck, serving Maine lobster, “Connecticut” or “Maine” style, and also offers lobster bisque, generous portions of hot tater tots, and even whoopie pies (classic chocolate and birthday cake flavored). Cousin’s has been enjoyed by celebrities and foodies alike across California. Cousin’s makes its next stop in Orange County on National Lobster Day in San Clemente at Pacific Pointe Apartments.
Hours: Varies by day
Locations: Varies by location
Cost for the Lobster Roll: $24-$29
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