Our food columnist looks back on her year of dining out.
Orange County’s restaurant scene experienced major upgrades and a few departures over the past 12 months. “Beach” city eateries found their way into my Instagram “saved” folder, and familiar industry faces resurfaced. As ‘80s singer Howard Jones would say, “Things can only get better.”
Here is my list of food favorites in no particular order.
The Denver omelet with crispy hash browns, left, and the fresh fruit parfait at Sunny Side Cafe.
Photos by Anne Marie Panoringan, Culture OC
Sunny Side Cafe, Seal Beach
There’s a category in Sunny Side’s menu labeled “Extra Shine” that encompasses overnight oats, biscuits and gravy as well as French toast. But it’s the nondescript vanilla bean parfait that put my savory-seeking taste buds on notice. Parfait was the first dish I tried at this retro(ish) dinette (think Monorail Cafe or Ruby’s), but with modern accents. Begin or end with a berry good, sharable treat while knowing it isn’t cloyingly sweet.
Located across the way from Leisure World and a post office in a Seal Beach strip mall, this daytime-only spot accomplished what many places don’t: acceptance by the community. Families, couples and seniors are offered a diverse menu of savories and sweets. A solid Denver omelet (ham, bell peppers, onion, Campari tomatoes, Monterey Jack and cheddar) paired with shredded, crispy hash browns and whatever toast I’m craving is a favorite that comes to mind. 2940 Westminster Blvd.; (562) 431-6625.
At Darkroom. PHOTO 1: The dimly lit lounge is near a record player with a collection of vinyl. PHOTO 2: Anne Marie Panoringan works to get the perfect shot of dinner before the tasting begins. PHOTO 3: All dishes served at a recent visit. PHOTO 4: Caesar salad wraps with comte cheese, matcha nori crunchies and pistachio is texture perfection. PHOTO 5: Grilled trout with cucumber, chowder and lovage oil is one of my favorite dishes. Photos by Anne Marie Panoringan, Culture OC
Darkroom, Santa Ana
This Costa Mesa-adjacent (that’s how it was told to me) tenant strikes a chord with its interpretation of modern California cuisine. A collaborative effort between Chefs Zach Scherer and Drew Adams, Darkroom blends familiar with nuanced ingenuity to craft the kinds of experiences O.C. has been starving for.
The primary dining space is, as the name states, a relatively dim area compared to most restaurants. Yet it glows brightly enough for individuals to saunter over to the rows of donated, eclectic vinyls and browse for the next round of vibes; think diner booth jukeboxes, but with entire setlists of one musician or band. It’s an appropriate feature when you realize Darkroom is walking distance from The Observatory concert venue.
I could describe some of the dishes I had the last time I dined at Darkroom, but the fact is that Adams and Scherer are constantly tweaking the selections based on inventory, which ingredients are still in season and whatever ideas they want to run with. Any given starter, main and dessert will consist of layers – textures, colors, aromas and, of course, flavors. I’ve lost count of the number of times a dish didn’t necessarily appear like what its description stated, making for a pleasant surprise when I finally took a bite.
Note: Guest chefs, tasting/prix fixe dinners and other special, themed evenings are often scheduled. If you opt to eat at the bar, a signature meal is available in very limited quantities on any given evening. 3751 S. Harbor Blvd., (657) 777-3275.
At Dolan's Uyghur Cuisine. PHOTO 1: Meaty manta dumplings. PHOTO 2: Läghmän, a noodle-based dish alongside vegetables and protein. PHOTO 3: Spiced lamb skewers, good for those on a keto diet. Photos by Anne Marie Panoringan, Culture OC
Dolan’s Uyghur Cuisine, Irvine
The third branch of this specific style of cooking but the first in O.C., Dolan’s Uyghur Cuisine originates from the Xinjiang region of China. Offering a range of recipes that includes vegetarian and halal dishes, Dolan’s Uyghur features lamb skewers, ground beef dumplings known as manta (my favorite) and savory rice; although one of the most popular dishes is läghmän – pulled noodles stir-fried in sauce with vegetables and beef.
Dolan’s joins the growing Asian/Pacific Islander population of restaurants in Irvine in a plaza anchored by Trader Joe’s, Omomo Tea Shoppe and Wanderlust Creamery. Uyghur flavors are reminiscent of places I frequent, compelling me to bring friends there when they inquire about the YouTube video I did with Dzung Lewis that took place in Dolan’s dining room. 14425 Culver Drive; (949) 299-2878.
Nightingale, Huntington Beach
I had trouble locating Nightingale the first time I was at Bella Terra; then I realized the operating hours were much earlier on the second visit. By my third attempt, I finally made it in time for a proper meal.
Serving brunch and Thai food (Thai brunch!) daily, the menu includes boba teas, alcohol, espresso-based drinks plus eggy burritos and hotcakes – a comprehensive collection of eats that makes it stand out in Huntington Beach’s breakfast scene. Be prepared to overorder and leave with a happy belly. My favorites include Nightingale’s yellow curry with chicken, shaking beef, lemon blueberry hot cakes and chilaquiles. Look for it next door to Eureka! 7631 Edinger Ave., Suite 1520; (714) 580-2939.
At Bar Becky, cold smoked salmon with buttermilk donut holes, crème fraîche and dill, left, and prosciutto and melon leveled up with balsamic, burrata, pistachio, mint and basil. Photos by Anne Marie Panoringan, Culture OC
Bar Becky, Long Beach
Yes, Long Beach is not Orange County. Yet it is close enough to O.C. that I try to head out there when I can make time. Snoop Dogg’s favorite city to rap about, the LBC is home to places like Heritage (not to be confused with barbecue) that earned a Michelin star, and my final favorite restaurant of 2024: Bar Becky.
“Hell’s Kitchen” finalist Chef Johnathan Benvenuti teamed up with seasoned sommelier and co-owner Jason Scarborough (from DTSA’s Trust) to open a bar in honor of the chef’s mother, Becky. Located in the LBX plaza where Ross Pangilinan’s ReMix used to reside, Benvenuti and Scarborough serve up a repertoire of Italian cuisine with fresh breads, housemade pastas, plus progressive riffs of childhood meals. Becky’s classic three-course, prix-fixe menu is a solid orientation to Benvenuti’s style of cooking.
À la carte entrees like a duck confit salad are in a personal rotation. The “bar” part of Bar Becky includes a curated wine list and curious cocktails. Check out the rye-based beverage with Amaro Nonino, lemon and red wine float known as The A.M. For food, I’m sold on the recently added weekend brunch. Lemon ricotta pancakes are exhausting to finish but worth every bite; a duck confit hash (yes, I love duck) is so comforting it gives me flashbacks of my mom’s corned beef hash. For lighter fare, I recommend the dish of prosciutto and melon made with mint, pistachio, burrata and balsamic. 3860 Worsham Ave.; (562) 421-0200.
